Picking Up the Torch: There’s some kind of great project yet to be done about the history of Peruvian food in Athens, which, as I understand it, goes back to a single family that moved here some decades back. Out of that small seed grew, if not a towering oak, at least a reliable dogwood, with at least one Peruvian or Peruvian-influenced restaurant in town at all times and sometimes as many as three or four.

With the closing of Las Conchitas Caliente, which had operated in Normaltown on Prince for some years, I feared for its future, apart from the reliable Cali 'N Tito’s, but the owner of Sabor Inka in Gwinnett took over the lease and opened Rustica (1354 Prince Ave.). The new place differs not tremendously in either menu, decor or general atmosphere from its predecessor. The slate of dishes is still exceedingly large, larger, perhaps, than before, although it relies almost exclusively on Peruvian offerings. The national cuisine is a little weirder than that of many other South American countries, with heavy Italian and East Asian influence, and it’s not afraid of spice. You will find cancha (fried corn, a crunchy, starchy snack) alongside yucca con mojo and tasty white beans. The sandwiches are disappointing. Always a highlight at Las Conchitas, here they are bland and dry. The ceviche, on the other hand, lacks not for zip. Swimming in citrus juices, it comes with plenty of onions. Lomo saltado (marinated beef, red onions, tomatoes, french fries, served with a side of rice), usually a safe bet, is fine but not superlative.

Rustica

A friend of mine said he’d always assumed tacu tacu, a combination of fried rice and beans also available at Cali 'N Tito’s as a cheap and delicious vegetarian option to get your protein, was a made-up term, but here it is, the same dish, albeit less well executed. The seco de carnes, inexpensive cuts of beef slow-cooked with white wine, is a little too fatty but plenty savory. Service varies, depending on who’s working, and some of the staff are better at communicating than others.

Rustica plans to organize many of the same kinds of events as Las Conchitas did, with Peruvian DJs, live music and even some benefits for animal shelters, and once it gets its liquor license, the number of customers should improve. The menu has much to explore, with tripe, cow heart, purple corn pudding, tallarin (Peruvian spaghetti) and a wealth of seafood. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner every day plus brunch on weekends starting at 10 a.m. and takes credit cards.

Most Improved: I hadn’t been to Trappeze (269 N. Hull St.) for a meal in I don’t know how long. Athens’ fancy beer bar always appealed to me as a place to get a drink, but the food offerings were boring, overly sweet and generally a big disappointment. Things have changed and in a big way. A new chef who is no longer new revamped the whole menu, and not only is it more fun to read, it’s a lot more fun to eat.

The execution more than lives up to the verbal promise, with even as simple a dish as chicken wings smartly conceptualized and well effected. The Buffalo sauce contains a little bit of fried sage, which adds a subtle herbal flavor that lingers on the palate without detracting from the otherwise classic orange stuff. They also come with a particularly excellent bleu cheese sauce and an elegant little salad of cucumber and celery. Lunch features an express menu, which includes about six items, each priced at a mere $6 and, even better, available with a buy-one-get-one-50%-off discount many days of the week, plus $2 half pours of a selected brew.

The roast beef sandwich, of which you get a half, served with tasty, crisp fries, is dosed with a cheddar and green peppercorn horseradish sauce that makes it moist but not soggy, and it comes with a side of jus for dipping should you want to (not necessary, but nice). The grilled Gruyère sandwich that accompanies the French onion soup skimps a bit on the cheese, but that’s about the only complaint I have.

Small plates can be combined into a cute sandwich platter at $3 a pop. The pulled pork slider exemplifies the kitchen’s commitment to detail, nicely dressed with sweet chili sauce and topped with three beautiful thin slices of pickled radish, arranged like a flower. The tiny pimento cheese burger isn’t quite as much of a showpiece, but it sure does taste good. And the pork taco that combines Latin and Asian elements is great, neither gloppy or dry and with well-balanced flavors. Service strikes the perfect note of friendly informality but is impressively on the ball, offering Sriracha before you know you want it and bringing your check swiftly when you request. The kitchen is open for lunch, dinner and brunch, and the beer menu remains excellent. You should go.

What Up?: Chonell’s is open on Baxter Street, in the former Gnat’s Landing.